November 27 – Months ago I never thought I would spend Halloween in Vienna. While that did in fact happen, that was certainly not the purpose of the trip. A granddaughter who lived and studied there was the impetus. Her parents – my son Jon and his wife Meredith from Urbana, Illinois – had suggested the trip last summer.
So with visions of schnitzel and strudel dancing in my head, it took me no time to sign up.
Then intensive research began: tickets, reservations, what to do, see and eat in the relatively short time of six days. A route was mapped out and we were ready to go. After an eight-hour flight (and three flight changes for me) we took off in Vienna. As we exited our Uber at the apartment we had rented, we saw two very tall, attractive young women walking toward us: my granddaughters Sophia and her cousin Olivia, who had flown in from London for a few days. And so the fun began.
First stop: because we were hungry, a famous place known for its schnitzel.
To get there we had to walk quite a distance through a large pedestrian square called St. Stephen’s Platz, which surrounds a beautiful cathedral. The streets were lined with luxury shops, cafes and pastry shops. Over the next few days we would visit most of them.
When we finally arrived at our schnitzel destination, I was surprised at how small it was, maybe six tables at most. As delicious as the dinner was, the pièce de résistance was a dessert called Kaiserschmarren. Basically it’s a puffy, caramelized crepe, much like a giant pancake, sometimes broken into bite-sized pieces with a little fruit compote (plum) for dipping on the side. Here it arrived whole on the table, hot from the oven.
Over the next few days we saw many people enjoying it at all times of the day, both in cafes and in ‘carrier cups’. Even the famous Demel pastry shop had a separate takeaway counter where people stood in long lines to get something. I did receive a prescription (included below). However, I have discovered that sometimes food is never quite the same when it is not in its original setting.
Most of our meals were eaten out: hearty breakfasts, lighter lunches (salads, soups) and dinners focused on regional specialties. Schnitzel of course several times, but also goulash and fish. Salads and Spätzle, the German noodle, were included. Portions were generous, so we often split the dinners. There was beer plentiful and varied, and there were also some very good Austrian wines. We were never short of food or drinks.
There were pastry shops everywhere, but from the beginning our favorite was the legendary Demel, the imperial baker since 1756. It’s the place for traditional favorites like Sachertorte and Apple Strudel. Stopping in the afternoon for a coffee and cake became our routine.
One store we didn’t want to miss was Cuisinarm, a multi-storey kitchen store that had everything a kitchen, chef or baker could want or need. Just to see the volume of goods it was worth stopping. We also visited a multi-storey supermarket, with meat, fish and cheese like I’ve never seen before.
Our days there were not all about food by any means. We saw the famous white Lipizzaner horses during a training session, spent hours in the popular Sisi Museum, which highlighted the life of Empress Elizabeth, wife of Emperor Franz Joseph, the Diana of her time who also met a tragic end.
We also visited the Vienna Museum, strolled through beautiful parks and marveled at the many horse-drawn carriages with tourists. Preparations were made all over the city for the opening of the Christmas markets; lamps were hung, stalls built and decorations hung.
Our last major event was attending the opera “La Boheme” at the spectacular Vienna Opera House. It was a performance like I’ve never heard before. It was also a fitting end to magical days in a very special city.
Optional
1/3 cup raisins
3 tablespoons rum or water
For the pancake
3 large eggs, separated
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons of sugar
Pinch of salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup of milk
Caramelize
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons of sugar
To serve
2 tablespoons icing sugar
1/2 cup fruit sauce
Mix raisins and rum in a small bowl. Separate the eggs and set the yolks aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, add the 3 egg whites and beat on high speed for about 2 minutes or until stiff peaks form. Don’t skip it. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Add the yolks, melted butter, vanilla extract, sugar and a pinch of salt. Using the whisk attachment on low speed, alternately adding flour and milk, one tablespoon at a time, until all is used up. Don’t mix too much. Gently fold in the beaten egg whites until combined. Be light-handed. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Pour the batter into the frying pan and cook for 6-7 minutes. After 3 minutes, sprinkle the drained raisins over the batter. Use a spoon to look under the pancake to see if it is golden brown. If so, sprinkle with a little sugar. Divide the pancake into quarters with a spatula and turn the pieces. Add a little butter to the pan. Use a spatula to cut the quarters into smaller pieces. Sprinkle with icing sugar and serve with a fruit sauce on the side. (Note: we never had this with the raisins.)
Post Bulletin food writer Holly Ebel knows cooking. Send comments or story tips to life@postbulletin.com.
