December 9 – Backwoods Burger Shack in Gorham plays on my weaknesses.
I’ve written before about my intense love for good burgers and also about my socially unacceptable gravy cravings. With the Voyageur – one of eight specialty smash burgers on the menu – Backwoods gives a cheeseburger the French dip treatment and serves it with a side of rich, house-made gravy for dunking. It may be my new go-to for cold weather comfort food.
Chef Rick Boyd’s delicious mashup starts with house ground beef, a mix of chuck and brisket. During the grinding process he seasons it with salt, pepper and garlic granules, so that it is completely absorbed into the meat. Boyd likes to pair his burgers with Muenster, a mild, buttery cheese that melts just like American, with the advantage of being unprocessed.
Condiments include a creamy garlic aioli made from candied garlic and crab mayo with egg yolks and the candied oil. The maple caramelized onions on the bottom bun are slow-cooked in candied oil and a sweet, sticky hint of maple syrup. Backwoods uses 4.5-inch rolls from Piantadosi Baking Co. in Massachusetts, slightly larger than standard 4-inch buns so that the thin, wide patty doesn’t hang over the edge.
I like it when chefs think carefully about the components of a dish, and Boyd thinks carefully about his creations. “We try to make every part of the burger play a crucial role in building an overall experience,” he explains. “Nothing should dominate; there shouldn’t be one thing that overwhelms everything else. You have to create these things so that there is harmony between every single part.”
Then of course there is the gravy. Boyd makes beef stock and reduces it to a demi-glace, a two-day process. He flavors the gravy with garlic, rosemary and thyme and then finishes it with a drizzle of fish sauce, a clever way to add depth and an umami boost.
While the burger hums along nicely on its own, it’s the gravy that really makes it sing. It’s even in danger of becoming a breakout star in its own right. “The gravy is so popular that people ordered it by the gallon during Thanksgiving,” Boyd said.
Fries are the ideal side dish for the Voyageur, as they help you soak up every last savory drop of gravy. Boyd buys Backwoods potatoes from Green Thumb Farms in Fryeburg and uses the Chipperbec variety, a dense, low-moisture white potato that is perfect for frying. Backwoods slices them thinly by hand and they come out crispy, evenly cooked and amply salted.
I recently ordered a Voyageur with bacon simply because Boyd asked me if I wanted bacon on it when he took my order, and I honestly can’t remember the last time I said no to bacon. It costs $2 extra and is worth it, although a Voyageur without bacon ($10) is a tasty burger anyway. Next time I’ll see if I can bring a liter of gravy.
The Voyageur burger with bacon, $12, Backwoods Burger Shack, 680 Gray Road, Gorham. Backwoodsburger.me.
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