(This story was originally published on November 7, 2014)
If there’s a better way to escape the rainy blues than a dip in the magical waters of Oregon’s hot springs, I have yet to experience it.
Geothermal activity creates pools of relaxing glory that are especially welcome when temperatures drop and rain falls over the mountains.
The hot springs in the Beaver State vary considerably. Some are wild outposts where naked hippies run around, others are expensive retreats and some are little-known secrets.
To keep the hot springs an enjoyable experience, it is important that visitors do not throw them away. There is a disturbing history of people behaving badly at hot springs in Oregon and ruining it for everyone else.
Here’s our roundup of the best hot springs in western Oregon, including five public destinations and four private resorts.
For more information, see books like “Touring Washington and Oregon Hot Springs” and “Hiking Hot Springs in the Pacific Northwest: A Guide to the Area’s Best Backcountry Hot Springs.”
Public hot springs in Oregon
These hot springs are located on land managed by the US Forest Service. Although generally cheaper than private hot springs, there are often more crowds and nudity on weekends. In other words, prepare for an interesting time and consider whether you want to bring kids or not.
Bagby Hot Springs
Perhaps the most beloved hot springs in northwest Oregon are reached via a beautiful trail through old-growth forest 40 miles southeast of Estacada.
Bagby Hot Springs was closed for nearly four years following the 2020 pandemic and the Labor Day wildfires, but finally reopened in the spring of 2013 under a new contractor with a new vision for the historic site.
Bagby is known for its wooden bathtubs and bathhouses. It has been refurbished and currently has two of the three bathtubs open.
The 16-site campground at the trailhead is also open, along with the Ripplebrook Store, where guests can purchase groceries, purchase a $5 weekly pass or use free internet.
The walk to the hot springs remains the same. From the Bagby Trailhead, the hike is 1.5 miles (3 miles round trip) and leads to bathhouses and surrounding cabins. As you walk up, steam rises from the ground as the 136-degree hot springs flow down the hill and into vats that range from hollowed out logs to whiskey barrels.
Traveling here in winter is difficult. The roads are quite low, but can become covered in snow, and if that happens it can be very dangerous and the Forest Service advises against going.
Bagby Preservation, which runs the site, does a good job of updating road conditions on its Facebook page during the off-season so people can decide whether to visit or not.
Directions: The Forest Service has outlined the best directions to follow. You can also travel from the Detroit area in late spring, summer and fall.
McCredie Hot Springs
Located just off Highway 58 in the Willamette Pass recreation corridor east of Eugene, McCredie Hot Springs features large and small rock-lined pools on both sides of Salt Creek.
Temperatures range from 95 to 105 degrees and the pools are located on both sides of the creek. You can access the quieter pools, on the south side of the creek, by crossing the creek or using another access trail.
The pools at the back of McCredie Hot Springs are accessible via Shady Gap Road.
Swimsuits are hit and miss, and truck drivers sometimes stop here. So leave your modesty at the car door.
Many great activities beckon nearby, including Salt Creek Falls, Oregon’s second highest waterfall, 10 miles away.
Snow affects the location in winter. Highway 58 is plowed, but the roads and parking lots are not always, if ever, plowed, so finding parking after a dusting of snow can be a challenge.
Directions (main parking lot): From Eugene, follow Highway 58 east to mileposts 46 and 47. There is a large sign and parking lot for McCredie Day Use Area. To find the pools, descend to the creek. There is a $5 fee to park here.
Directions (swimming pools on the south side): Continue a short distance on Highway 58 to Shady Gap Road, cross the creek on a bridge, turn right and park in the first wide spot. A 0.5 km path leads to the pools on the south coast.
Terwilliger Hot Springs (Cougar Hot Springs)
Terwilliger Hot Springs is a popular spot for Eugene residents and is also known as Cougar Hot Springs due to its proximity to the Cougar Reservoir. The forest surrounding it was burned in a wildfire in 2018.
This very popular dual-name hot spring is open year-round, just off the McKenzie River Corridor. Terwilliger is the official name, but is often called Cougar due to its proximity to Cougar Reservoir.
From the parking area just off Forest Service Road 19 there is a trailhead that requires a $5 payment. Then it’s a half-mile hike through a forest that burned during the 2018 Terwilliger Fire – which affected the entire area, including the hot springs. The search for the people who started the fire is quite a wild story.
The hot springs consist of a series of stepped pools, which can often be crowded on weekends. There is also a lack of shade due to the fire, which can make it feel hot in the summer.
The hot springs remain open in the winter, but the Forest Service notes that “Forest Service Road 19 is not maintained in the winter due to snow and ice.” So be prepared if you visit after a low-lying snow or freeze.
Terwilliger Hot Springs is a popular spot for Eugene residents and is also known as Cougar Hot Springs due to its proximity to the Cougar Reservoir. The forest surrounding it was burned in a wildfire in 2018.
Directions (Terwilliger/Cougar): From Eugene, follow Highway 126 to between mileposts 45 and 46. Turn south at a “Cougar Reservoir” sign onto paved Aufderheide Drive 19. After half a mile, keep right at a fork to stay at 19 Aufderheide Drive. Then continue another 7 miles to the Terwilliger Hot Springs trailhead on the right. Parking is a few hundred yards away on the left.
Deer Creek Hot Springs / Bigelow Hot Springs
Oddly enough, the other hot springs in the McKenzie Corridor, east of Eugene, also have two names.
This smaller collection of hot springs are pools along the literal banks of the McKenzie River. The springs sometimes wash out at high tide, especially in the spring. The path to the hot springs is short, but the pool only has room for about six people.
Directions (Deer Creek): To find Deer Creek from Salem, take Highway 22 past Detroit 20 miles, turn right at the Santiam Y-intersection for 3 miles, turn left onto Highway 126 toward Eugene for 14 miles, then turn right on Deer Creek Road a McKenzie River bridge. Park on the other side of the bridge from Deer Creek Road and walk 200 yards to the left (downstream) to the hot springs.
Umpqua Hot Springs
Umpqua Hot Springs
The scenery at Umpqua Hot Springs is unparalleled: small hot pools on a bluff overlooking the North Umpqua River and forested mountains.
However, the beauty and remoteness of the place have led to a history of extremely wild behavior and problems, including problems with fights, poop and wanabies from the Manson family. The situation has improved in recent years thanks to actions taken to monitor the site and ban camping, but it remains a fairly rough place, officials said in 2023, as evidenced by the amount of graffiti found on literally every building is tagged.
From the trailhead it’s a short walk over a bridge over the North Umpqua River before crossing to the other side, and a steep and slippery quarter-mile hike to the springs.
In winter, a gate on the road leading to the hot springs closes to prevent cars from getting stuck in the snow. That begins a kind of “slower season” in which an additional five miles of hiking, biking or skiing are required to reach the trailhead on Thorn Prairie Road.
Directions: From Interstate 5 in Roseburg, take exit 124 for Oregon Highway 138. Follow signs for Diamond Lake through downtown Roseburg and follow Highway 138 east for 95 miles. At mile marker 59, turn left onto the Toketee Lake exit (Forest Road 34) and continue on the paved road for 2 miles. Then turn right onto unpaved Forest Road 3401 (Thorn Prairie Road) and follow it for 2 miles to a large parking area on the left.
Affordable Resorts in Oregon
Not everyone likes nude bathing or the sometimes raw and crowded atmosphere at public hot springs.
If so, consider some of these resort pools with pay-to-soak systems. Many are actually quite reasonable.
Belknap Hot Springs
Two hot springs are located along the Mckenzie River and this popular lodge east of Eugene.
The 102 degree riverside pools are open 365 days a year from 9am to 9pm. Pay $7 for an hour or $12 for the whole day.
There are also tent sites, cabins and camper sites for rent.
Directions and information: belnaphotsprings.com.
Breitenbush Hot Springs
Perhaps Oregon’s most famous private hot springs, Breitenbush Hot Springs, have recovered from near destruction during the Labor Day wildfires.
A limited number of day passes for $20-$35 are available online, along with cabins to spend a night. Workshops and retreats are also popular here.
Reservations must be made in advance online or by calling 503-854-3320.
Directions and information: breitenbush.com.
Carson Mineral Hot Springs
This resort is actually located in Washington State, on the Columbia River Gorge, in the small town of Carson on the Wind River.
After a cold day of rafting or kayaking on the Wind of White Salmon, consider a quick stop here for hot springs that cost $20 to $25 for a 25-minute bath and 25 minutes in a hot towel.
Directions and information: https://www.carsonresort.com/
Kah-Nee-Ta Hot Springs Resort
Closed for six years due to financial difficulties, the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs reopened this popular central Oregon resort earlier this year as Kah-Nee-Ta Hot Springs Resort. Day weeks and overnight stays are both possible here.
Directions and info: https://kahneeta.com/
Zach Urness has been an outdoors reporter in Oregon for 16 years and hosts the Explore Oregon Podcast. He can be reached at zurness@StatesmanJournal.com or (503) 399-6801. Find him at X at @ZachsORoutdoors.
This article originally appeared in Salem Statesman Journal: Best Hot Springs in Oregon for Hot Springs in Winter 2024
