The train clicks and clacks along in a steady rhythm, through different shades of green. Lush rice fields turn into dense forests, while rivers sparkle in the morning sun.
The green, tropical landscape is briefly interrupted by colorful sparks of life in the form of towns and villages, where people go about their morning routine: street vendors serving breakfast to commuters, women bringing fresh produce back from the market and children gathering in their red and white school uniforms.
This is the view from the Argo Wilis Panoramic, a light and airy carriage on the Argo Wilis train. It runs between the cities of Surabaya in East Java and Bandung in West Java and is one of the most beautiful and underrated train journeys in all of Southeast Asia.
For some context, Indonesia is the largest archipelago in the world, with more than 17,000 islands. While boats and planes are usually the main way to travel between the islands, trains in Java are by far the best choice.
The railway network extends from east to west and covers 1,064 kilometers and is home to more than half of Indonesia’s population (that is as many as 275 million people). It is logical that the railway network is so extensive and well used.
The Argo Wilis panoramic carriage is stationary in Surabaya Gubeng station. -Josh Edwards
Kereta Api Indonesia (KAI) is the country’s national railway company. Although there are limited train networks on the islands of Sumatra and Sulawesi, the vast majority are based in Java and connect all major cities including Jakarta, Bandung, Yogyakarta, Solo and Surabaya.
Most of this network was built during the Dutch colonial era, which lasted about 350 years.
Each train has its own name with its own meaning.
“For example, the Argo Wilis is named after an inactive volcano in East Java,” explains a railway guard. “There are also other trains named after volcanoes, as well as historical places and Javanese myths and legends.”
The unique thing about Indonesian trains is that instead of there being one carriage for a particular ‘class’, each entire train consists of three classes: economy, executive or business.
Whichever class you are in, they are immaculately clean and comfortable, with reclining seats, footrests and air conditioning – a must in the tropical heat of Indonesia. The trains are also incredibly punctual and affordable.
The journey on the Argo Wilis Panoramic between Surabaya and Bandung takes just under 10 hours and costs Rp 1,200,000 ($77) per person for a single journey in the panoramic carriage, and only Rp 680,000 ($43) for the rest of the executive train .
In addition to the Argo Wilis Panoramic, there are also the Argo Parahyangan Panoramic and the Pangandaran Panoramic that run back and forth between Jakarta and Bandung.
Looking out the window of the Argo Wilis, en route from Surabaya to Yogyakarta – Josh Edwards
The panoramic car costs a little more than the rest of the train cars, but the ticket offers many advantages. Even before boarding, passengers can start their journey in style in the stations’ executive lounges, where complimentary food and drinks are included. Hot drinks, a snack box and a main meal are provided on the train. There’s also free Wi-Fi, although with such incredible views there shouldn’t be much time for scrolling.
Buying tickets is easy. Like the rest of Indonesia, the railways have been quick to embrace technology, especially in the form of mobile apps. The best way to book is Traveloka or Tiket.com, two of Indonesia’s largest online travel companies. It is also possible to book tickets on KAI’s official website, but the site is only in Indonesian and only accepts Indonesian credit cards. Tickets do not need to be printed; simply scan them from your phone at the station.
Highlights of the route
For those traveling with the Argo Wilis Panoramic and wanting to break up the journey, there are several towns along the way that are definitely worth spending a few days exploring. (If you want to make stops, you will need to book your tickets for each of these destinations separately.)
One of the highlights is Yogyakarta, one of Indonesia’s most interesting cities, and the only one that still has a monarchy. It is the center of the country’s art and cultural heritage, with creative industries such as silversmithing, shadow puppetry, traditional dance and batik textiles, an ancient art form dating back more than 2,000 years and believed to have originated in Java.
There’s plenty to keep visitors busy, from walking around the Kraton (the royal palace) to shopping for locally made arts and crafts along the famous Malioboro Street.
Of course, no visit to Yogyakarta can be complete without a visit to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Borobudur and Prambanan.
Located on the outskirts of the city, Borobudur is the world’s largest Buddhist temple, dating back to the 8th century.
Surrounded by forests and mountains, it is one of the most incredible attractions in Asia.
On the other side of the city you will find Prambanan, the largest Hindu temple in Indonesia. It’s a huge site and it’s worth visiting the smaller, quieter temples in the area, which are just as fascinating.
Stone stupas lined up at Borobudur, the world’s largest Buddhist temple. – Siripong Kaewla-iad/Moment RF/Getty Images
For more art and culture, Solo is an interesting city just an hour and a half by train from Yogyakarta. Historically the power center of Central Java, it is home to historic buildings, temples, markets and craft workshops. Keraton Surakarta Hadiningrat, the former royal palace, is worth a visit, as is the museum, which has a large collection of antiques and artifacts.
Solo is also one of the most important centers for batik production. Besides workshops at Laweyan Batik Village, you can also look for batik goods at Pasar Klewer, a traditional market, while Pasar Triwindu is an antique hunter’s dream.
If you happen to have room in the itinerary for a small day trip (always recommended when traveling in Java), the scenery around Solo is beautiful. An hour’s drive from the city are the 15th-century temples of Sukuh and Cetho, located on the slopes of Mt Lawu. Be sure to visit the nearby Jumog Waterfall for a refreshing dip to cool off from the intense heat and humidity.
If you travel west on the Argo Wilis Panoramic, it is worth exploring Bandung, where the train ends. Located in the highlands at approximately 768 meters above sea level, the city enjoys a much cooler climate, making it a nice break from other cities on the island.
Nature is everywhere you look, from the tree-lined boulevards to the forests and tea plantations that surround the city – there’s even a smoking volcano, Tangkuban Parahu, just an hour’s drive from the city center station.
An aerial view of Gedung Sate, a historic building in Bandung. -Ismail Rajo/iStockphoto/Getty Images
Dubbed ‘the Paris of Java’, Bandung has a distinctly European feel thanks to its numerous Dutch colonial and art deco buildings, many of which have been transformed into trendy coffee shops and hip boutiques.
The city is every foodie’s dream. From street vendors and food markets to luxury restaurants, visitors are spoiled for choice.
Whether you make stops or travel all the way through, the Argo Wilis Panoramic is the best way to admire Java’s varied, often breathtaking landscape.
“Trains are probably one of the nicest things about Java,” says a fellow passenger, a British woman in her sixties who takes the slow route across the island with her husband.
“It’s criminal to take a flight and miss all this,” she says, waving her hand at the large window as the train makes another turn, revealing even more terraced rice fields, enclosed by airy palm trees.
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