This article was produced by National Geographic Traveler (UK).
Considered by many to be the jewel in India’s crown, the state of Rajasthan has a magical quality. This is the land of the maharajahs, where palaces are decorated with frescoes, ancient temples are home to wise ascetics and fortresses dominate the skyline. From the pink Old Town of Jaipur and the lakeside city of Udaipur to the Brahmin-blue rooftops of Jodhpur, here’s how to make the most of it in seven days.
Days 1-2: Jaipur
Doing: Jaipur’s Old Town is the personification of Indian romance: a maze of winding streets, lined with market stalls and nestled between scalloped terracotta walls. The City Palace is still home to monarchs and its beauty is enchanting, from the complex of courtyards to antique works of art and walls painted in kaleidoscopic patterns. A private tour opens up areas that are normally off-limits to visitors. While you’re there, don’t miss the Palace of the Winds, with its staggering 953 windows. Jaipur is also the heart of India’s textile industry, and a tour takes travelers behind the scenes: meet the artisans, learn how to block print, and walk among streams of colorful fabrics hanging to dry in the fields on the outskirts of the city. No visit would be complete without a guided tour around Amber Fort, built in 1592 and the ancient capital of the state.
To eat: Dine at The Johri, a boutique hotel housed in an old haveli (traditional mansion) and order truffle aloo tikki potato cakes with chilli cheese naan, or for excellent European food, head to Bar Palladio in Jaipur. This flashy, ocean-blue restaurant has a large garden and an extensive cocktail list.
Stay: Nowhere is more opulent than Rambagh Palace, the former residence of the Maharajas of Jaipur. The view from the 33 suites extends over expansive lawns, dotted with fountains and surrounded by peacocks. The refined restaurant, Suvarna Mahal, presents carefully prepared classics in a setting fit for a king; think gilded mirrors, gold tableware and crystal chandeliers.
Days 3-4: Udaipur
Doing: A short flight from Jaipur is the Pink City’s quieter cousin, Udaipur, situated on Lake Pichola and surrounded by the purple ridges of the Aravalli Hills. Take a private boat ride at sunset to watch the water turn fiery red, and pause for a tour of the island palace of Jagmandir, built in 1620. Huge stone elephants flank the entrance, while marble pavilions dot the manicured grounds. A slow cycle around the lake passes pretty streets of whitewashed houses, children taking an afternoon dip and the steps of Gangaur Ghat, which lead down to the water’s edge next to a beautifully restored haveli. Udaipur is also known for its miniature paintings, and on a comprehensive tour you’ll meet local masters to learn the history behind this intricate art form.
To eat: Have lunch on the tented lawns of Raaj Bagh, overlooking the lake and serving some of the best paneer in town. In the evening, head to Jagat Niwas, a heritage hotel and a beautiful sunset spot. Tables are set artfully in jharokhas (stone windows) that jut out over the water, ceilings are colorfully frescoed and the menu features Rajasthani classics, from dal to tandoori chicken.
Stay: The Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur is a vision of white marble, located on a private island in the lake. The rooms feature hand-painted motifs, silk cushions, swings and stained glass windows overlooking the City Palace, where a light show illuminates the building in golden hues every evening. The on-site restaurants, such as Bhairo on the roof, are reserved for guests.
Day 5: Narlai
Doing: Rural Rajasthan provides a pleasant contrast to the palaces and general pandemonium of the cities. The two-hour drive to Narlai is also spectacular, passing the colossal hilltop Kumbhalgarh Fort, also known as the Great Wall of India, and the Ranakpur Jain Temple. With its echoing halls and nearly 1,500 intricately carved pillars, the latter site is so breathtaking it brings visitors to tears. The small village of Narlai moves to a slow country beat; look for village elders wearing scarlet turbans, farmers tending herds of goats and chai wallahs with steaming flasks of tea. If energy permits, walk to the top of Elephant Rock for stunning views of the countryside.
To eat: More than 600 candles flicker in the breeze, casting a golden light on what is perhaps the world’s most magical dinner setting at Rawla Narlai, a sprawling mansion deep in the countryside, with an ancient stairwell. Here visitors can enjoy a five-course meal featuring locally sourced ingredients against a backdrop of live music by a local sadhu (religious ascetic). Stay: Visitors can also choose to stay at Rawla Narlai. The 32 rooms are arranged around a series of beautiful courtyards, where guests can drink and dine under the stars. A huge outdoor pool, artfully hidden behind crenellated walls and surrounded by a shady garden, provides much-needed relief from the scorching Indian sun.
Stay: Visitors can also choose to stay in Rawla Narlai. The 32 rooms are arranged around a series of beautiful courtyards, where guests can drink and dine under the stars. A huge outdoor pool, artfully hidden behind crenellated walls and surrounded by a shady garden, provides much-needed relief from the scorching Indian sun.
Days 6-7: Jodhpur
Doing: Look down on Jodhpur from above and see a sea of Brahmin blue buildings. A three-hour drive from Udaipur, this is the second largest city in Rajasthan – and it is truly blue. The Sardar Market is a good place to start. Expect a sensory overload: mountains of spices, rows of rainbow-colored saris and a constant background of honking cars. The mighty Mehrangarh Fort, one of the largest in India, towers over the city and is an architectural marvel. A private tour includes a meeting with the curator, who will reveal the history behind the hundreds of treasures on display, before a glass of champagne on site. For something different, visit Mharo Khet Farm on the outskirts of town. The owners are lovely, the tour fascinating and the meal includes some of the 80 vegetables grown there.
To eat: Enjoy stuffed peppers and okra at Khaas Bagh, a historic hotel with an excellent restaurant. While you’re there, admire the extensive collection of classical paintings on display in the on-site gallery. Also dine in the atmospheric rooftop restaurant Indique, with a view of the fort and the Umaid Bhawan Palace. Chef Vishal is known for his spicy lamb koftas.
Stay: The rose-red sandstone Raas Jodhpur Hotel is an 18th-century haveli within the walls of the old city. This is Jodhpur’s most stylish hotel, where traditional features have been given a contemporary facelift. Adjacent is Toorji Ka Jhalra, a beautifully reclaimed stairwell, plus numerous boutiques including Gem Palace, Forest Essentials, Nicobar and Good Earth.
Published in the Luxury Collection 2024, distributed with the October 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveler (UK).
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