The study, titled “Job creation in the African second-hand clothing sector“, was commissioned by the development network Humana People to People. It estimates that SHC trade contributes more than $73.5 million annually in tax revenues, funds that support critical public services and infrastructure in just five African countries – Angola , Guinea-Bissau, Malawi, Mozambique and Zambia.
In February 2022, concerns were raised about the negative impact of the second-hand clothing trade with sub-Saharan Africa, hampering the development of the region’s clothing and textile sector, while some experts warned that its elimination would not be easy.
However, Humana People to People’s research shows that with each ton of imported used clothing supporting an average of 6.5 jobs, the SHC workforce represents up to 25% of total service sector employment in these countries.
Dr. Joseph Feyertag, an independent development economist and author of the report, said it is “time we recognize and strengthen the value that the SHC sector brings.”
The affordable clothing options offered by second-hand clothing sellers also give citizens from low-income households access to essential clothing items.
Patrick Diamond, professor of public policy at Queen Mary University of London, added: “Contrary to the common misconception that it competes with local textile industries, [the SHC sector] complements these, enriches local economies and offers essential clothing at accessible prices. Strategic support from policymakers can unlock even greater potential within this sector.”
The report finds little evidence that the import of used clothing itself is the main cause of the decline in domestic textile production in Africa. More substantive challenges, including limitations in raw materials and insufficient investment in machinery, are seen as bigger culprits.
The report states that further growth of the SHC trade could create valuable ‘green jobs’ by embodying the principles of the circular economy and extending the life cycle of textile products in an environmentally sustainable way.
Hilda Kavenuke, from second-hand clothing retailer DAPP Zambia, said: “As a retailer in the second-hand clothing market, I have seen first-hand how this business not only supports my family, but also the community around us.
“Every shipment of clothing we receive creates multiple opportunities – not just in sales, but also in jobs for many others in the supply chain, representing 6.5 jobs per tonne. Strengthening this sector can truly transform communities by creating more jobs and supporting more families. .”
“The findings of this report highlight the second-hand clothing sector as a key driver of employment in Africa. In countries still experiencing high levels of extreme poverty, these jobs offer an opportunity to diversify income beyond subsistence farming and provide much-needed access to affordable clothing.”
“The Livelihoods of 2.5 Million Africans Supported by the Secondhand Clothing Trade” was originally created and published by Just Style, a brand owned by GlobalData.
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