In what claims to be the only female-run cafe in the capital of Indonesia’s most conservative province, owner Qurrata Ayuni says she and her baristas offer an alternative to noisy, smoke-filled male haunts.
The 28-year-old opened Morning Mama last year to create a space for women in Banda Aceh, known as the city of 1,001 coffee shops.
“I thought, why don’t we open a place that’s comfortable for women?” she said.
Although the province has long been known as the site of the world’s deadliest tsunami and a decades-long separatist insurgency, Aceh’s draw is often its coffee.
The traditional “sanger” latte, mixed with condensed milk, is a popular main course.
Aceh’s strong bond with coffee began hundreds of years ago under Dutch colonial rulers. Now farmers grow world-famous beans in lush highlands.
Aceh continues to draw attention for its ultra-conservative values, including statutes requiring Muslim women to wear hijabs.
Although women are not banned from working in Indonesia’s only Muslim-majority region where Islamic law is enforced, running a coffee shop is seen as a man’s job.
“It is extremely difficult for women in Aceh to pursue education or a career because they face not only legal restrictions but also social harassment,” said Andreas Harsono of Human Rights Watch.
Despite widespread criticism, public flogging remains a common punishment for a range of crimes in the province, including gambling, alcohol consumption and extramarital relations.
Independent career paths are usually seen as out of reach for Aceh’s young women, but Qurrata was undeterred.
– ‘Time for change’ –
Qurrata, who runs her café without a business partner, saw a demand for a space where women can work or meet friends.
She and her team of baristas serve fresh coffee to customers who mainly wear hijabs, while children’s books and sanitary pads are available nearby for use.
“There’s no cigarette smoke, it’s not noisy, it’s really cozy,” she said, adding that some men also drink coffee in her shop.
“It’s a statement that women can own companies, make decisions and lead,” she said.
“Now is the time for change.”
The entrepreneur says women are increasingly becoming women and points out that at least 1,000 people are applying for jobs as baristas.
“I want to give them the opportunity to change the course of their lives,” she said.
Caca, a 23-year-old barista, said it was a “really cool job” that is rare in Aceh.
The café’s regulars call Morning Mama a place where women can be themselves.
“I feel more connected when I ask a female barista something,” says 21-year-old student Meulu Alina. ‘I don’t feel any nervousness. It’s more like talking to your sister.’
– Helping others –
Before starting her business, Qurrata overcame the loss of her parents at the age of eight during the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, which killed more than 200,000 people.
Her village near Banda Aceh was completely destroyed, but she survived and was raised by her aunt and uncle.
Qurrata said she wants to channel her grief to help other women.
“It’s a platform to help others find their own resilience, just like I did,” she said.
Her photography jobs allowed her to build savings and self-confidence and make the leap into the corporate world after her uncle encouraged her and helped her financially.
Other women were still “afraid to start,” she said, out of fear that men will say bad things.
“People here tend to believe that women should stay at home,” she said.
But “the older generation understands that times have changed.”
Owner of Aceh’s popular Solong coffee shop, Haji Nawawi, said he did not want to employ women, but locals had accepted them making coffee elsewhere. He called it ‘normal’ because values ’from outside’ Aceh had entered the province.
Qurrata employs five women, in addition to two men.
Income fluctuates, but Qurrata says her ultimate goal is to inspire other women.
“Women are capable of so much more than we are often given credit for. We can be leaders, creators and innovators,” she said.
‘So don’t sit back. Don’t be afraid.’
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